Britain at Work
A Pictorial Description of Our National Industries
År: 1902
Forlag: Cassell and Company, Limited
Sted: London, Paris, New York & Melbourne
Sider: 384
UDK: 338(42) Bri
Illustrated from photographes, etc.
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54
BRITAIN AT WORK.
shoes, technically known as “ nurseries,” is
sold to offal dealers who have a connection
with “ nursery ” men. All instructions for
the manufacture of goods are set forth upon
a “ ta<* ” like a long lu<wage label. A fore-
man, upon completion, usually tears off the
portion of the ticket relating to his depart-
ment and files it. This ticket enables the
office to keep trace of what takes place
from the entry of an order into the factory
to its delivery in the stock room.
The upper leather having been cut and
housewife is familiar, two-needle vamping
machines, twin-needle zigzag machines, and
those making three or four stitches simul-
taneously, and machines which trim the
edges of the uppers with knives whilst the
needle is doing its work. The sections of
bench are placed end to encl, so that the
trough is continuous, and underneath is
fixed the shafting, which drives the separate
machines at the will of the operator. The
work is passed from one part of the room
to another by means of a wicker trolley
A BUSY SCENE IN THE “ BOTTOMING ” DEPARTMENT.
assembled with the linings, etc., correspond-
ing, i-t is despatched to the “ closing ” or
machining room. This is where uppers are
fitted together, first attached by paste and
then sewn deftly by young women on sewing
machines—which are of a variety of types.
It is necessary for the expeditious closing of
uppers for several operators to perform
different parts. One will sew the seams in
the linings, another will put in backstraps,
a third will attach the vamp, and so on;
and to facilitate this the modern machiné
bench is made in sections, with a trough at
the back, into which the work drops as it
is reeled off. Here are the old types of
single sewing machines with one needle,
somewhat like the one with which the
on castors, the idea here being, as in
other departments, for the process to be
continuous until completion.
The upper leather must be “ skived,” which
means that a wedge-shaped slice is removed
from each of two edges which have to be
joined, so that the thickness of the two shall
not exceed that of the other parts of the
upper. Most of the upper leather “ skiving ”
is performed on a machine which carries a
thin, rapidly rotating circular knife, the
feeding of which is very similar to that oi
a sewing machine. After “ skiving,” then
“ fitting ” ; and the tendency to-day is to do
as little “ fitting ” as possible ; partly to save
labour, and partly to avoid the use of paste
or other adhesives liable to germination if