Cycle Repairing and Adjusting
With a Chapter on building a Bicycle from a Set of Parts

VARIABLE GEAR DEVICES 135 hub is correctly adjusted, and is not for the purpose of making the adjustment. On no account should this be screwed up or touched in any way. Another way to tighten the wire is by tapping the clip on the top tube towards the head of the machine ; to slacken, reverse the operation and secure the clip again. Should the back wheel be moved when adjusting the chain at any time, this will, of course, alter the tension of the wire. See that the nuts on both sides of the axle are perfectly tight. Oil the gear about every 100 miles by means of the lubri- cator on the left face of the hub, using only a few drops of good cycle oil. “ With reference to the tri-coaster, when the gears are properly adjusted and the change-speed lever is in the low-gear notch, the indicator should then be level with the end of the hub axle.” In the Armstrong “ Three-speed ” Hub (Figs. 72 and 73) the gears are always in mesh, and the change can be made under any and every condition—while free- wheeling, pedalling, or standing still. The parts of the “ Mark IV.” pattern are illustrated by Fig. 73, their names being as follow: 105, sprocket; 112, planet pinion; 114, driver dust cap; 124, screwed connection; 125, adjustment lock nut ; 126, bell-crank lever ; 126a, bell-crank lever screw ; 127, bell-crank carrier ; 127a, screwed connection screw ; 128, left-clutch spring ; 130, axle collar ; 131, axle cross pin ; 133, right-clutch spring ; 134, step (lady’s or gentleman’s) ; 135, axle grub spring ; 136, left cone ; 137, ball retainer ; 140, right cone ; 141, right cone cap ; 142, star washer ; 143, right cone lock