Cycle Repairing and Adjusting
With a Chapter on building a Bicycle from a Set of Parts

148 CYCLE REPAIRING fit tight up, before applying the fresh glue, which must be of the best, and applied as hot as possible. As an extra precaution, a couple of brass rivets, about TV in. in dia- meter, might be put through the joint, using at each end small brass or copper washers, which should be let in flush with the surface and smoothed off. Two very fine brass screws may be used instead of rivets if they can be procured of the right length. Wood Rims.—In drilling wood rims it is specially important that the holes should be drilled the correct angle, as the material, being so much thicker, the nipple has no chance of correcting itself. A special drill with combination cutter to form the seating for the washer should be used. A special wood rim washer is used under the nipple, round in shape with turned-down and ser- rated edges, which bed down into the rim, and serve the double purpose of preventing the rim splitting and the nipple head pulling down into the hole. When the wheel is assembled and roughly trued, these washers must be bedded down with a hollow punch struck with a light hammer. If this is not done the wheel will very soon get out of truth and the spokes become loose. Cutting Down Cycle Frame from 28 in. to 26 in.— It is presumed that the cycle frame is a modern pattern with parallel top tube, which it is desired to retain. Take the machine completely to pieces. Unbraze the top head tube and seat lug, removing the two lugs and tube. Scrape off the enamel and look for brazing pegs before trying to unbraze the lugs. The simplest way to get off the top tube and lugs is to cut the down tube and head