The Garden Under Glass

78 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS spring may be potted into small pots and thence transferred to 6-inch pots, where they will make a splendid show. The first batch of old corms will be started in December by shaking them free from the old soil and starting them in boxes of leaf-soil. With a nice network of roots in active growth they will justify transference to just the size of pot that will comfortably contain them without crushing the roots. When well rooted into these, and before the leaves become so expansive as to render potting difficult, they may be moved to the flowering pots, usually six but some-times seven inches in diameter. For the final potting I have f ound good results accrue from a compost made up of fibrous yellow loam, peat, sand, leaf-soil and cow manure. The loam should be broken up, the peat be freed from dust, the leaf-soil sifted through a half-inch sieve and the cow manure broken up after being dried. Small sticks may be needed to keep some of the flowers erect. Gloxinias relish a moist amosphere such as can best be given when grown on a double staging similar to that which I have previously described. They are best kept in a temperature of 65° until they flower, when a few degrees lower will not harm them. After the flowers are faded the bulbs will be gradually dried off in the usual manner. Heavy shading is not necessary, but exposure to full sunshine will certainly harm them whether in flower or in growth. A succession of flowers of these beautiful plants can be kept up for many weeks. Hippeastrums (Amaryllis) In correct circles this delightful bulbous plant is always referred to as hippeastrum. But by being correct there is often a danger of being obscure, so in seeking safety it is