The Garden Under Glass

328 THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS should be regularly tied to prevent breakage by wind. Should any buds form on the large flowering type before the last few days of the month they should be pinched out and the topmost growth grown along. About the middle of the month cut hard back the growths of pelargoniums and set the old plants on their sides in the open garden to keep them dry for a couple of months. Use the trimmings to fonn cuttings, and set them in a box in a cold frame or greenhouse. If properly treated, these should make nice bushy flowering plants by next May. Gloxinias are still flowering well. They are very useful as cut flowers, often lasting from seven to twelve days in an ordinary drawing-room. Small plants may be moved from 3-inch to 6-inch pots. Put in more leaf cuttings if there are not already enough. Box off seedlings of winter-flowering Stocks and put them in an open frame, covering them only during heavy rain. If this be done at the beginning of the month they will merit removal to 3-inch pots by the end of July. Make another sowing in case the first lot should flower in the autumn, as they sometimes will. Sow mignonette for winter flowering, and at the end of the month put in a pinch of schizanthus seed. Take cuttings of the best varieties of tuberous begonias. Prick off calceolarias as soon as they are large enough to handle. Move cinerarias to 3-inch or 5-inch pots, according to their size. Pot on Primula obconica, sinensis, Kewensis and malacoides, and keep them cool and shaded. Pot successional batches of freesias. Give a further shift to Coleus thyrsoideus, this time to 7-inch pots. Stake liliums and top-dress them. If cuttings of Salvia splendens were taken from the points of the plants now standing in the open a few weeks back they will now be ready for 3-inch pots, and will make nice short flowering stuff. Plant another lot of cucumbers in frames. Pinch the points out of zonal geraniums intended