Cycle Repairing and Adjusting
With a Chapter on building a Bicycle from a Set of Parts

98 CYCLE REPAIRING bend over at right angles at one end to fit in the end of the fork-end slot. Then cut off just the length of the fork blade. With this both can be cut to a nicety. Fit the forks to the bridge lugs, and peg and braze. Before finally pegging, drill air-holes and load for brazing the same as the top front tube. Fit the top back stays to the top bridge lugs in a similar manner to the bottom, taking care that both are of equal length. Drill air-holes and load and peg. Before brazing up these and the bottom forks to the bridge joints, fit the wheel in place, and see that the rim is in the centre of the forks and stays. If not, one tube is longer than the other, or the wheel is dished. Whichever the fault, it must be corrected before brazing. Whilst brazing these bridge joints, stays of some kind must be fixed between the free ends to keep the job firm, and to ensure the joints setting with the forks and stays at the proper angle. In brazing the short stay tubes to the top and bottom bridges previously, the lugs will have become scaled with the heat, so this must, of course, be filed bright again before fitting up. This also applies to the back lugs on the bottom bracket when the front and seat tube joints were brazed. So these must be scraped out clean before fitting the back part up to it. In cutting the back forks and back stays, it should be remembered that they should be cut at such a length that will give equal clearance from the rim to the under-side of both. The amount of clearance will depend on whether mudguards are to be fitted or not. If with mudguards, there should be quite 1-in. clearance from the surface of the tyre. That is to say, if 28-in. wheels are being used,