Cycle Repairing and Adjusting
With a Chapter on building a Bicycle from a Set of Parts

144 CYCLE REPAIRING washer should be used under the nipple head to prevent pulling through. Shortening Cycle Forks.—Forks may be shortened by cutting them to the required length, cleaning out the inside for an inch or so, and then flattening the ends again on to a piece of sheet steel fitted into the flattened end before brazing. After brazing, the axle holes can be marked off truly and drilled to suit the axle, or cone shoulder, if so fitted. The holes must be drilled equally distant from the centre of the crown, or the front wheel will be nearer one fork than the other, and out of track with the rear wheel. Setting Cycle Forks.—For setting cycle forks, heat the steering tube to a dull red just at the bent part only , hold the end of the tube in the vice, and pull the tube straight by using the fork blades as leverage. When the tube is straight and true with the fork crown, let it cool gradually, and treat the blades in the same manner, one at a time, holding the blade to be set in the vice and using the steering tube as leverage. To test the truth of the blades, pass a straight rod through the spindle holes in the end of the blades, and place another rod or straight- edge across the top of the blades close up to the crown ; the two straightedges or rods should then lie in one plane. When this is satisfactory, fix the wheel centrally in the forks and test the steering tube for trueness or upright- ness with the wheel. This may be done by placing a straightedge on the edges of the rim, and noting the distance that the top of the steering tube is from the end of the straightedge when tried on each side. If unequal,